Basic Q & A

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What's a reverse mortgage?

A loan against your home that requires no repayment
for as long as you live there.

How's it different?

  • To qualify for most loans, the lender checks your income
    to see how much you can afford to pay back each month.
    But with a reverse mortgage, you don't have to make
    monthly repayments. So your income generally has
    nothing to do with getting the loan or the amount of the loan.
  • With most home loans, if you fail to make your monthly
    repayments, you could lose your home. But with a reverse
    mortgage, you don't have any monthly repayments to make.
    So you can't lose your home by failing to make them.
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Who can get one?

  • You must own your home, and generally all of the owners
    must be at least 62 years old.
  • Your home generally must be your "principal residence" -
    which means you must live in it more than half the year.
  • For the federally-insured "Home Equity Conversion
    Mortgage" (HECM), your home must be a single-family
    property, a 2-4 unit building, or a federally-approved
    condominium or planned unit development (PUD).
    During 2001, cooperatives are also expected to made
    an eligible property for a HECM. Most mobile homes
    are not eligible, although some "manufactured" homes
    may qualify if they are built on a permanent foundation,
    classed and taxed as real estate, and meet other
    requirements.
  • If you have any debt against your home, you must either
    pay it off before getting a reverse mortgage or - this is
    what most borrowers do - use an immediate cash advance
    from the reverse mortgage to pay it off. If you don't pay off
    the debt beforehand, or do not qualify for a large enough
    immediate cash advance to do so, you cannot get a reverse
    mortgage.

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How much cash can you get?

The amount of cash you can get from a reverse mortgage
depends on the program you select and - within each
program - on your age, home, and interest rates.

    • It can vary by a lot from one program to another.
      A typical consumer might get $30,000 more from
      one program than from another. But no single
      program works best for everyone.
    • For all but the most expensive homes, the federally-
      insured "Home Equity Conversion Mortgage" (HECM)
      generally provide the most cash.
    • Within each program, the amount of cash you can
      get depends on the age(s) of the owner(s), the value
      (and in some cases the location) of the home, and
      current interest rates. In general, the most cash goes
      to the oldest borrowers living in the homes of greatest
      value at a time when interest rates are low. On the other
      hand, the least cash generally goes to the youngest
      borrowers living in the homes of lowest value at a
      time when interest rates are high.

But remember, the total amount of cash you actually end up
getting from a reverse mortgage will depend on how it's paid
to you plus other factors.

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How's it paid to you?

That's up to you. You could take it

    • as an immediate cash advance at closing, that is, a
      lump sum of cash paid to you on the first day of the loan
    • a creditline account that lets you take cash advances
      whenever you choose during the life of the loan - until
      you use it all up
    • OR as a monthly cash advance
      • for a specific number of years that you select,
      • OR for as long as you live in your home,
      • OR - if you use the loan to buy an annuity -
        for the rest of your life, no matter where you live
    • OR as any combination of immediate cash advance,
      creditline account, and monthly cash advance

Use the calculator at www.aarp.org/revmort/ to estimate
how much cash you could get from a reverse mortgage.

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How much total cash?

  • If you take a creditline account, the total amount of cash
    you actually get will depend on two things: how much of
    your available creditline you use, and whether the creditline
    is "flat" or "growing."
    • With a flat creditline, the amount of remaining available
      credit at any time only changes if you take a cash
      advance, at which point it decreases by the amount
      of the advance. For example, if you have a flat $50,000
      creditline and take out $10,000, you would have
      $40,000 left whenever you decided to take more.
    • But with a growing creditline, your remaining available
      credit grows larger by a given rate. For example, if you
      took $10,000 from a $50,000 creditline that grows by
      8% each year, and then came back for more three
      years later, there would then be over $50,000 left to
      use - because the remaining $40,000 growing at 8%
      per year would become $50,388 after three years.
    • So a growing creditline can give you a lot more cash
      over time than a flat one. That’s why you need to look
      at more than the size of a credit-line when a reverse
      mortgage starts. You also should consider how much
      available credit would be left in the future. This will also
      depend, of course, on how much you take out and
      when you take it.
    • The creditline in the Home Equity Conversion Mortgage
      (HECM) program grows larger each month by the same
      rate as the one being charged on the loan balance. It
      keeps growing for as long as there is any credit left,
      that is, until you withdraw all your remaining credit.
    • For a sample comparison of creditline plans, click here.
  • If you take monthly loan advances, the total amount of cash
    you actually get will depend on whether you select a plan
    that sends them to you for a specific number of years, or
    for as long as you live in your home. It will also depend how
    long you actually live in your home.
  • If you use a reverse mortgage to buy an annuity, the total
    amount of cash you actually get will depend on how long
    you live - no matter where you live.
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What happens to your debt?

It grows larger and larger as you keep getting cash
advances, make no repayment, and interest is added
to the amount you owe (your "loan balance").

That's why reverse mortgage are called "rising debt,
falling equity" loans. As the amount you owe (your debt)
grows larger, your equity (that is, your home's value
minus any debt against it) generally gets smaller.

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That why it's called "reverse"?

  • Yes. In a "forward" mortgage (the kind you normally use
    to buy a home), your regular monthly repayments make
    your debt go down over time until you have it all paid off.
    Meanwhile, your equity is rising as you owe less and less,
    and as your property value grows (appreciates). So
    forward mortgages are "falling debt, rising equity" loans -
    just the opposite of reverse mortgages.
  • Here's another way to think of it. In a forward mortgage,
    you use debt to turn your income into equity. In a reverse
    mortgage, you use debt to turn your equity into income.
    You are reversing the deal you used to buy your home.
    Then, you had income and wanted equity. Now, you have
    equity and want income. In both cases you use debt to
    turn what you have into what you want.
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When do you pay it back?

  • When the last surviving borrower dies, sells the home, or
    permanently moves away. "Permanently" generally means
    you have not lived in your home for 12 months in a row.
  • You might also have to pay it back if you fail to pay your
    property taxes, fail to keep up your homeowner's insurance,
    or let your home go to waste. But if you do, the lender may
    be able to make extra cash advances to cover these
    expenses.

Just remember, reverse mortgage borrowers are still
homeowners and therefore are still responsible for taxes,
insurance, and upkeep.

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What do you owe?

The total amount you will owe at the end of the loan (your
"loan balance") equals

    • all the cash advances you've received (including
      any that were used to pay loan fees or costs)
    • plus all the interest on them
    • up to the loan's "nonrecourse" limit
      (see answer to next question).

Interest rates can change based on changes in
published indexes. But the more adjustable they are,
the lower they start – so they give you larger cash
advances. And they will be lower than less adjustable
rates all during the time that index rate changes don’t
exceed the caps on the less adjustable rates.

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What's the most you can owe?

You can never owe more than the value of the home
at the time the loan is repaid. Reverse mortgages are
generally "nonrecourse" loans, which means that in
seeking repayment the lender does not have recourse
to anything other than your home. Not your income, your
other assets, or your heirs.

So even if you receive monthly loan advances until you
are aged 115, your home declines in value between now
and then, and the total of monthly advances becomes
greater than your home's value - you can still never owe
more than the value of your home. If you or your heirs sell
your home in order to pay off the loan, the debt is generally
limited by the net proceeds from the sale of your home.

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How do you pay it?

  • If you sell and move, you would most likely pay back the loan
    from the money you get from selling your home. But you could
    pay it back from other funds if you had them.
  • If the loan ends due to the death of the last surviving borrower,
    the loan must be repaid before the home's title can be
    transferred to the borrower's heirs. The heirs could repay the
    loan by selling the home, using other funds from the
    borrower's estate or their own funds, or by taking out a
    new forward mortgage against the home.
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What's left?

Not all reverse mortgage borrowers end up living in their
homes for the rest of their lives. Some who expect to
remain living there change their minds. Others face later
health problems that require a move.

So it makes sense to plan for the possibility that you may
sell and move some day. How much equity would be left
if you did?

    • If, at the end of the loan, your loan balance is less than
      the value of your home (or your net sale proceeds if
      you sell), then you or your heirs get to keep the
      difference. The lender does not "get" the house. The
      lender gets paid the amount you owe, and you or your
      heirs keep the rest.
    • IMPORTANT: If you take the loan as a creditline account,
      be sure to withdraw all remaining available credit before
      the loan ends. You will have the money sooner that way,
      and it could be more than otherwise might be left. For
      example, a growing creditline could become greater
      than the leftover equity in some cases.
    • If you have purchased an annuity and then sell your
      home, you could continue receiving monthly annuity
      advances for the rest of your life. If the loan ends due
      to the death of the last surviving borrower, and if the
      annuity purchased by the borrower includes a death
      benefit or "period certain" payments, then the annuity's
      beneficiaries would receive additional cash.
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What's the out-of-pocket cost?

The out-of-pocket cash cost to you is most often limited
to an application fee that covers a property appraisal
(to see how much your home is worth) and a minimal
credit check (to see if you are delinquent on any
federally-insured loans).

Most of the other costs can be "financed" with the loan.
This means that you can use reverse mortgage funds
advanced to you at closing to pay the costs due at that
time, and later advances to pay any ongoing costs. The
advances are added to your loan balance, and become
part of what you owe - and pay interest on.

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What are the other costs?

  • Most are generally of the same type found on "forward"
    mortgages: interest charges, origination fees, and
    whatever third-party closing costs (title search & insurance,
    surveys, inspections, recording fees, mortgage taxes) are
    required in your area. Reverse mortgages also typically
    include some type of "risk-pooling" or "reverse mortgage
    insurance" premium and a monthly servicing fee.
  • Although total loan costs between one program and another
    can vary enormously, many of the individual cost items within
    each program do not vary from one lender to another. Within
    the HECM program, for example, the costs that may be
    different from one lender to another are generally the
    origination fee and the servicing fee. So if you've decided
    on HECM you want to get the best deal, these are the specific
    fees to compare.
  • The largest total cost differences you will find are the ones
    between different programs, for example, between the
    HECM and Fannie Mae's "Home Keeper" program. But
    it is virtually impossible to evaluate or compare the true,
    total cost of reverse mortgages unless you consider their
    Total Annual Loan Cost (TALC) rates.
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What's the total cost?

Federal Truth-in-Lending law requires reverse mortgage
lenders to disclose the projected annual average cost of
these loans in a way that includes ALL of the costs and
benefits, and also takes into account the nonrecourse limits.

This Total Annual Loan Cost (TALC) disclosure shows
you what the single all-inclusive interest rate would be if
the lender could only charge interest and not charge any
other fees. Specifically, it tells you the annual average rate
that would produce the total amount owed at various future
points if only that rate were charged on all the cash
advances you get that are not used to pay loan costs. In
other words, it shows you what you are paying in total for
the money you get to spend.

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How does the total cost vary?

On any loan with a given pattern of loan advances, TALC
rates depend on two major factors: time and appreciation.

    • TALC rates are generally greatest in the early years
      of the loan and decrease over time, for two reasons
      1) the initial fees and costs become a smaller part of
      the total amount owed, and 2) the likelihood increases
      that the rising loan balance will catch up to - and then
      be limited by - the nonrecourse limit.
    • TALC rates also depend on changes in a home's value
      over time. The less appreciation, the greater the
      likelihood will be that a rising loan balance will catch up
      to - and then be limited - by the home's value. On the
      other hand, when a home appreciates at a robust rate,
      the loan balance may never catch up to (and be limited
      by) it.
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What's that mean?

If you end up living in your home well past your life
expectancy or your home appreciates at a low rate,
you might get a true bargain. But if you die, sell, or
move within just a few years or your home appreciates
a lot, the true cost could be very high.

There's no way of avoiding this fundamental risk. You
just have to understand it in general, assess the potential
range of TALC rates on a specific loan, and decide if
it's worth the benefits you expect you'll get from the loan.

Just remember, TALC rates are not really comparable to
the Annual Percentage Rates (APRs) quoted on "forward"
mortgages because

    • unlike APRs, TALC rates include all the costs
    • unlike APRs, TALC rates do not assume you take
      all of the loan on the first day (if they did, TALC
      rates would be much closer to APRs)

It's also important to remember that you get benefits from
a reverse mortgages that you don't get from a "forward"
mortgage:

    • no monthly repayments, and no repayment of any
      kind for as long as you live in your home
    • an open-ended monthly income guarantee, or a
      guaranteed creditline (which may grow larger until
      you use it all)
    • a total debt limit equal to the net value of your home
      (even if it's less than what your loan balance would
      otherwise have been), no matter how long you live,
      and no matter what happens to the value of your home

So you may pay more for a reverse mortgage. But the benefits
are not available on any other type of debt. And - if you live long,
or if your property value doesn't grow much - you can end up
with a lower than expected cost.

For more on TALC rates, go to TALC Disclosures.

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Revised: May 16, 2001.